If you’re a hands-on person and planning to install a new floor, I’m going to assume you’ve been researching click floors. Click floors tend to be the go-to choice for homeowners who want a simple installation. Before you dive right into the installation, know how you need to prepare and what to expect.
GENERAL GUIDELINES
- Click floors are recommended for residential and light-commercial use.
- They should only be installed indoors, NEVER outdoors.
- Think about your climate. Click floors should be installed in an indoor, climate-controlled location that is between 65°- 85°F. During the life of the floor, the floors can handle a slightly wider range, from 55°F to 100°F. The performance and lifespan of both the floor and underlayment will be adversely affected outside this temperature range.
- Give your click floors time to acclimate on the climate-controlled jobsite for 48 hours prior to installation.
- Only install your floor after your jobsite has been thoroughly cleaned, so no damage occurs during installation.
- During installation, open 2-3 boxes and mix planks from each, to minimize color and pattern variation.
- Protect your click vinyl floors from constant exposure to direct sunlight.
SUBFLOOR PREPARATIONS
Preparing your subfloor is a very important step of click floor installation. Most problems with all flooring installations are a result of poorly prepared subfloors. Uneven or rough subfloors will create problems that will transfer to the floor.
Concrete Subfloor:
- Concrete subfloors must be hard, dense, and free from powder or flaking.
- New concrete slabs must be thoroughly dry (at least six weeks) and completely cured. If you hired a professional to lay the concrete, consult him or her to determine if it’s dry enough to install flooring.
- Holes, grooves, expansion joints, and other depressions must be filled with a Portland cement-based underlayment, troweled smooth, and feathered evenly with the surrounding surface.
- Concrete floors with a radiant heating system are satisfactory subfloors provided the temperature of the floor does not exceed 90°F at any point. Before installation, turn on the heating system to eliminate any residual moisture, and ensure the floor is installed at normal living conditions.
Wood Subfloor:
Wood subfloors, plywood or otherwise, should be standard double layer construction, with a finished thickness of at least 1” and should have 18” of well-ventilated air space underneath. Crawl spaces should be insulated and protected by a vapor barrier. Do not install vinyl flooring over a sleeper type subfloor, or over plywood that is directly over a concrete slab.
Existing Flooring
Click planks can be installed over a variety of finished floors including single layer resilient sheet and tile flooring, ceramic, marble, and terrazzo. The surface must be in good condition and show no signs of excessive moisture conditions. Level deep or wide grout lines with an embossing leveler. Do not install flooring over heavily cushioned floors or over tile installed over concrete below grade level.
The grout joints in ceramic tile and marble must be leveled so they are flush with the tile surface. Additionally the tile may require several skim coats to achieve a flat surface.
Radiant Heated Systems
Premium Glueless click planks (also known as a type of LVT planks) can be installed over in-floor radiant heating systems provided the subfloor surface does not exceed 85°F at any point. The initial floor temperature should not exceed 70°F for 24 hours prior to and 48 hours after installation. Thereafter the temperature should be gradually increased to the desired setting up to 85°F. Radiant heating systems that are installed on top of the subfloor surface and covered with self-leveling underlayment are not recommended.
PREPARATION
- Please note that many old resilient floors, such as linoleum, were installed using “cutback” adhesives that may contain asbestos. Please consult with a professional prior to attempting to remove these old asbestos adhesives.
- Your click flooring must be stored in the room where it will be installed for at least 24 hours beforehand. The room should be heated to normal living conditions at all times before, during, and after installation. If necessary, this may require using a temporary HVAC system (portable heaters may not be powerful enough).
- The material must be checked before laying and the supplier must be informed immediately in case of any defects.
INSTALLATION
Installation Tools Needed:
- Utility Knife
- Carpenter Square
- Chalkline
- Tape Measure
- Pencil
- For best appearance, planks should be installed parallel to the long dimension of the room and preferably parallel with outside light sources i.e. windows and doors.
- Determine the layout to achieve the largest cut planks at the walls and snap a chalkline at the starting point.
- Install planks in a random layout. Start with a whole plank in the left hand corner of the room with the tongue side and end toward the wall. Lay the first row of planks along the chalkline and trim to fit to the wall allowing a ¼”expansion space. Note: If starting the first row with a whole width plank, it will be necessary to trim the tongue off against the wall. Always place the cut edge against the wall. To trim planks, use a utility knife and a straight edge. Score the top surface of the plank and flex it downward to separate the pieces.
- Attach the end joints of the planks in the first row. Insert the tongue into the groove while holding the plank at a 20° to 30° angle to the floor. Apply pressure inward and down until the planks lock together. Use spacers between the edge and end of the planks and the wall to maintain a ¼” expansion space.
- Start the second row using a ⅓ of a plank. Place the cut end against the wall. Insert the tongue on the long side of the plank into the groove of the plank in the first row. Hold the plank in a 20° to 30° angle while applying pressure inward and down until they lock together. To complete the second and all successive rows it will be necessary to lock the short end into the previous plank first before locking the long side of the plank. Angle the plank and push the tongue into the groove and adjust it until the tongue locks into place. It may be necessary to lift both planks slightly to lock the joint together. Complete the second row allowing a ¼” expansion space at the cut plank at the end of the row.
- Start the third row using ⅔ of a plank with the cut end against the wall. Complete each row thereafter using a random layout with end joints offset by at least 8”. Plan the layout to avoid using small planks (less than 6”) at the walls. The cut piece at the end of the row can often be used to start the next row provided it achieves a random layout. Always place the cut end against the wall and allow a ¼” expansion space.
- When fitting around door trim it will be necessary to slide the plank under the trim. This can be accomplished easily by starting the row on the side of the room with the door trim and then sliding the plank into place once it is attached. The row can be completed by inserting the tongue into the groove or the groove into the tongue depending on the direction. A special Uniclic approved tapping block and pullbar can also be used to lock the joints together while the planks are in a flat position. Use a series of light taps until the joint is gradually locked together.
SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS
Bathrooms
When the click floor planks are installed in a bathroom, the flooring can be laid under the toilet only if the floor is separated from adjacent rooms with a doorway threshold. Otherwise, the flooring should be installed around the toilet leaving a 1/8” expansion space. Use a high quality silicone caulking to fill the expansion space at the tub, shower and all wet areas to prevent surface water seepage under the floor.
Stairs
Click floors can be installed on stairs using a special overlap click floor stair molding. It is recommended on stairs that the planks be glued, to prevent movement. Please refer to the molding installation instructions for more details.
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